Shore Temple,
Mamallapuram
The Shore Temple (built in 700–728 AD) is so named
because it overlooks the shore of the Bay of Bengal. It is a structural temple, built with blocks of granite, dating from the 8th century AD. It was built on a promontory
sticking out into the Bay of Bengal at Mahabalipuram, a village south of Chennai in the state of Tamil Nadu in India. At the time of its creation, the village was a busy port during the reign of Narasimhavarman II of
the Pallava dynasty. As
one of the Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram, it has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since
1984. It is one of the oldest structural (versus rock-cut) stone
temples of South India.
Shore Temple is a standing testimonial to the regal heritage of
India. Located at Mahabalipuram, Shore Temples can easily be reached by taking
regular buses or by hiring taxis from anywhere in Tamil Nadu. The nearest
airport is located at Chennai that lies at a distance of 60 kms from
Mahabalipuram. One of the most photographed monuments in India, Shore Temple is
a structural monument on the shores of Bay of Bengal.
Geography
Shore temple is a complex of three temples, one large and two
small, located right on the shores of the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal in Mahabalipuram, which was earlier known as Mamallapuram.
During the Pallava Dynasty reign
this was a port city of their kingdom which they ruled from Kanchipuram. It was built by the Pallava Dynasty when it was the trading port
of the dynasty.
History
Sailors gave the name Seven Pagodas to the Shore Temple when they saw this tall structure on the
seashore, as the temple probably acted as a landmark for navigation of their ships. As it appears like a Pagoda, the name became familiar to the seafarers.
This structural temple complex was the culmination of the
architectural creations that were initiated by the King Narasimha Varma I (popularly called as Mammalla after whom the Mamallapuram
town is named), in mid 7th century starting with the Cave temples and the
monolithic Rathas. Even though the architectural creation of sculpturing cut-in
and cut-out structures continued during subsequent periods, as seen in the
Atiranachanda cave, the Pidari rathas and the Tiger cave, the main credit for
the architectural elegance of the Shore Temple complex in the category of
structural temples goes to the King Rajasimha (700–28 AD), also known as Narasimhavarman II, of the
Pallava Dynasty.
It is now inferred that this temple complex was the last in a
series of temples that seemed to exist in the submerged coastline; this is
supported by the appearance of an outline of its sister temples off the coast
during the Tsunami of 2004 which
struck this coastline. The architecture of the Shore Temple was continued by
the Cholas (in the temples that they built) who ruled Tamil Nadu after
defeating the Pallavas.
The Tsunami of December 2004 that struck the coastline of
Coromandel exposed an old collapsed temple built entirely of granite blocks.
This has renewed speculation that Mahablaipuram was a part of the Seven Pagodas
described in the diaries of Europeans, of which six temples remain submerged in the sea. The Tsunami
also exposed some ancient rock sculptures of lions, elephants, and peacocks
that used to decorate walls and temples during the Pallava period during the
7th and 8th centuries.
Though the Tsunami of 26 December 2004 that occurred in the Indian
Ocean struck the temple and the surrounding garden, the Shore Temple was not
badly damaged, as the water level returned to its normal level within a few
minutes. The damage was to the foundation of the bali
peetam (sacrificial altar) in front of the temple, the steps leading to
the boat jetty, and the small shrine with the Varaha (Boar) sculpture at the basement of the Shore temple. As the
temple foundation is on hard granite rock, it could sustain the waves created
by the Tsunami; the groynes erected around the temple area on the coastline also aided
its protection.
According to the two inscriptions found in the slab of smaller
Shiva temple, the names of the three temples mentioned are as Kshatriyasimha
Pallaveshvara-griham, Rajasimha
Pallaveshvara-griham and Pllikondaruliya-devar. The entire temple
complex is called as Jalashayana (lying in water). This confirms that
the Vishnu shrine was the first shrine to be excavated here. The inscription on
the lintel of the Vishnu shrine also mentions this as Narapatisimha
Pallava Vishnu Griha where Narapatisimha is a title of Rajasimha.
An archaeologist has observed that: "In locating the temple
on the very margin of the sea, exposing it to avoidable dangers, the builders,
there can be little doubt, sought theatrical effect."
Indian Dance Festival
The Mamallapuram Dance Festival is held every year during Dec-Jan
in Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu. This dance festival is organised by Department of
Tourism, Govt. of Tamil Nadu. Exponents of Bharatanatyam, Kuchipudi, Kathak,
Odissi, Mohini Attam and Kathakali perform against this magnificent backdrop of
the Pallava rock sculptures. It is vibrant festival of dance where enormous
audience enjoys this one month long festival.
Legend
As the Shore Temple was initially identified as part of the Seven Pagodas at Mahabalipuram, an ancient Hindu legend referred to the
origin of these pagodas in mythical terms. Prince Hiranyakasipu refused to worship the god Vishnu. The prince’s son, Prahlada, loved and was devoted to Vishnu greatly and criticized his
father’s lack of faith. Hiranyakasipu banished Prahlada but then relented and
allowed him to come home. Father and son quickly began to argue about Vishnu’s
nature. When Prahlada stated that Vishnu was present everywhere, including in
the walls of their home, his father kicked a pillar. Vishnu emerged from the
pillar in the form of a man with a lion’s head, and killed Hiranyakasipu.
Prahlada eventually became the king, and had a son named Bali. Bali founded Mahabalipuram on this site.
Myths also mention that Gods were jealous of the architectural
elegance of the monuments of Mahablipuram, and as a result they caused floods to
occur, which submerged most parts of the city, except for a few structures that
are seen now.
Architecture
Layout
All the three Temples of the Shore Temple complex are built on the
same platform. Viewed from the northern end, the temples appear to be a replica
of the Dharmaraja Ratha. The
main Shore Temple, which faces east so that the sun rays shine on the main
deity of Shiva Linga in the shrine, is a
five-storied structural Hindu temple rather than rock-cut as
are the other monuments at the site. Built with sculpted granite stones hauled
from a nearby quarry, it is the earliest important structural temple in South India.
Its pyramidal structure is 60 feet (18 m) high and sits on a
50 feet (15 m) square platform. There is a small temple in front which was
the original porch. It is made out of finely cut local granite. The shore
temple is also one of the most popular temples. Recent excavations have
revealed new structures here under the sand.
The temple is a combination of three shrines. The main shrine is
dedicated to Shiva as is the smaller second shrine. A small third shrine,
between the two, is dedicated to a reclining Vishnu and may have had water channelled into the temple, entering
the Vishnu shrine. The two Shiva shrines are orthogonal in configuration. The entrance is through a transverse barrel vault gopuram. The two shikharas have a pyramidal outline; each individual tier is distinct
with overhanging eaves that cast dark shadows.
The outer wall of the shrine to Vishnu and the inner side of the
boundary wall are extensively sculptured and topped by large sculptures
of Nandi. The temple's outer
walls are divided by pilasters into bays, the lower part being carved into a series of
rearing lions. The temple walls have large sculptures of Nandi.
Features
The temple has a garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) in which the deity, Sivalinga, is enshrined, and a small mandapa surrounded by a heavy outer wall with little space between
for circumambulation.
At the rear are two shrines facing in opposite directions. The
inner shrine dedicated to Ksatriyasimnesvara is reached through a
passage while the other, dedicated to Vishnu, is facing outwards. The Durga is seated on her lion vahana. A small shrine may have been in the cavity in the lion's chest.
The Shore Temples configuration of the two Shiva shrines with the
small Vishnu shrine in between illustrates an attempt to balance the different,
competing religious requirements.
The roofs of the temples have ornamentation similar to the Pancha
Rathas. The roofs have finials on the top, indicative of its religious functional nature,
as it was a completed temple. The octagonal shapes of the shikaras of the two temples dedicated to Shiva are in the Dravidian
architectural style. Beneath the towers, the sanctuary walls are mostly blank
with out any decorations but the columns are carved over lion mounted
bases. The decorations on the outer faces of these shrines are similar to
those seen on the Pancha Rathas, though due to their closeness to the sea, are
partially eroded due to salty winds.
The most distinctive feature of the temple are the Dharalinga and the Somaskanda panel, which are enshrined in the interior walls of the
sanctum of the east facing Kshatriyasimhesvara temple. The Dharalinga is
deified in the garbhagriha, which is in square shape of 12 feet
(3.7 m) and the height is 11 feet (3.4 m). The Dharalinga or
Shivalinga is in Rajasimha style, carved out of black basalt stone.
It has sixteen faces with slight fluting to create a crown at the
top. The top portion of the linga is damaged. Its total height is 6 feet
(1.8 m) with one foot embedded in the foundation to provide
stability. A bas-relief portraying family image
of Shiva and his consort Parvati with their child Kartikeya built over a stone slab is located in a small shrine in the
temple. This is also called the Somaskanada panel, a carved stone panel.
Two more similar panels are seen at the entrance porch of the
temple. This type of panel is also depicted in the nearby Dharmaraja Ratha of
the Paramesvarvarman’s era. The ardha mantapa or half chamber which
is the first chamber before entering the sanctum sanctorum also has sculptures
of Brahma on the south wall and Vishnu on its north wall. Sculptures of Shiva
as Tripurantaka and Durga are seen
on the back side of the north wall of the main shrine. There is also a
circumambulatory passage to go round the main shrine in a clockwise direction.
The smaller Shiva temple behind the main temple is a double
storied structure with a stepped pyramidal tower with an
octagonal shikhara built over a circular griva.
A kalasa and finial are fitted above
the shikhara. Kudus (horseshoe -arch dormer like projections)
and small shrines are part of the cornices at both levels of the structure. A
Somaskanda panel decorates the back wall of the inner shrine. There is
no mantapa (hall) in front of this shrine (probably damaged). The
external walls display two panels. One is calledEkapadamurti, a eye-legged form of Shiva with Brahma and Vishnu emanating from
his sides. The second panel is of Nagaraja (king of serpents) standing below a
five-hooded serpent.
Anantashayi Vishnu (reclining posture of Vishnu lying on the serpent Ananta) is enshrined in a small rectangular shrine between the large
Kshatriyasimhesvara temple and the Rajasimha Pallaveshvara temple. Vishnu is
depicted with four arms but his attributes are missing (damaged). The temple
structure's rectangular tower is missing. The typical design
of kudus and small square shrines are part of the cornice arrangement.
The external walls have carvings of Krishna slaying the demon Kesi, Krishna dancing over Kaliya(the seven hooded serpent), and Vishnu seated on his vehicle Garuda in the act of saving Gajendra (elephant) from the mouth of a crocodile. Inscription noted
in Pallava Grantha script is
on the lintel indicating it as the earliest shrine of the complex.
The entire compound wall surrounding the temples is sculpted with
large sculptures of Nandi, the vehicle or mounts of Shiva, and also with Yalis
and Varahas (boars).
Lion monolith
A monolith sculpture of a partly carved and partly sculpted lion
with a hole in its torso is erected within the compound wall of the temple
complex. A miniature image of Durga is sculpted on the back of the image, which is a depiction
of Durga as Mahishasurmardini. The open mouth of the lion is inferred as representation of its
role as the favourite mount of Durga. A female guardian with a bow is also
carved on the leg of the lion.
Miniature Shrine
In 1990, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) discovered a miniature shrine with the Bhuvaraha image in a well type enclosure. This is dated to the Pallava
King Narasimhavarman Mamalla’s (AD 638–660) reign. It was enclosed with an
elliptical well built during Rajasimha’s (AD 700–728) period. These are carved
on the bedrock that also has the reclining Vishnu in the Shore Temple
complex. The miniature shrine is also dedicated to Shiva.
It has sixteen-sided base which is carved from bedrock. The
circular wall and superstructure are of structural type. There are lions
depicted on the pilasters. It is reported as a unique single tiered temple and
not seen in other temples of the Pallava period. Its circular shikara is
in vesara style architecture.
The shikhara is erected on a circular griva, which
has kudus and maha-nasikas on its four sides and
each nasika has an image of Ganesha. The kalasa above the shikara is missing. The carving of the
Bhuvaraha depicts Varaha as the boar incarnation of Vishnu. This image is in unusual form, unlike
another Varaha depictions in other regions of the country, as there is no Bhudevi shown nor an ocean. The depiction is in the form of Varaha
performing a diving act into the ocean to rescue Bhudevi or mother earth.
The symbolism of this act denotes the myth, only when the temple
is submerged in water, as it is below the ground level. The sculpture is
seen broken and the base has an inscription referring to titles of the Pallava
king Rajasimha. The wall that surrounds the shrine to prevent intrusion of sand
from the sea also has an inscription on the topmost layer, in Pallava-Grantha
script, which equates the king with Arjuna.
Conservation
ASI has constructed break-water wall all around the sea shore to
save the temple from further damage. The temple structures, affected by
rough Sea and winds with salt content are being conserved by the Archaeological
Survey of India by building protective groynes, treatment with wall paper pulp, and by planting casurina trees along the affected coast line. The pulp treatment absorbs
the saline water. In addition, chemical treatment is also given the monument to
prevent water seepage into the rock. This kind of treatment is also reported to
take out water stored inside the rock thus allowing the stone to breathe and
preserve its strength. The area around the Shore Temple, has been beautified.
The horticulture wing of the ASI has created a green lawn of 11 acres (4.4
hectares) around the Shore Temple. Fixing of signages with information on the
monuments and creating fountains was also part of the beautification programme
planned by ASI.
Facts
Features: 7th century Hindu temple situated near the coast
Opening Times: 6:30 am to 6:00 pm, daily
Best Time to Visit: Early weekday mornings
Duration: 1 hour
Travelled By: Foot
Cost: Indian/foreigner Rs 100/250
Address: Shore Temple Road, Mahabalipuram, Tamil Nadu, India