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Friday, December 4, 2015

Kodumbalur, Pudukottai

Kodumbalur is 36 km from Pudukkottai. Kodumbalur is the site of some structural temples of great beauty. Their merit marks them out as among the most outstanding monuments in India. Two monuments alone are survived. They are the celebrated Muvarkoyil and Muchu-kundesvara-koil. There are survivals of an Aivar-koil and of another Siva temple.
It is Muvar-koil, which is the centre of attraction. They were built by Boodhi Vikrama Kesari, a general of the Chola army in the 10th century A.D. One of the Irukku Velirs who ruled this place, named Idangazhi Nayanar is included n the canons of the 63 Nayanmars.
This place was also a stage of fierce battles between the Pandyas and the Pallavas. The architecture of this temple is unique among the temples of south India. The sculptures of kalarimurthi, Gaja (Elephant) Samharamurthi, Gangadaramurthi etc. are unique masterpieces. Nearby is the temple dedicated to Muchukundeswarar of the early Chola period is located.These temples are considered to be the forerunners of the great Imperial Chozha temples. Some important inscriptions are also found here.
History
Kodumbalur is one of the most ancient places in Pudukkottai and perhaps the oldest historically recorded site. The Silappadikaram, the earliest Tamil epic, mentions Kodumbai as lying on the highway between Uraiyur, the Chozha capital and Madurai, the Pandya capital. It is through this road did Kovalan, the hero of Silappadikaram and his wife Kannagi, along with a Jaina acetic, travelled from Uraiyur to Madurai. The Periyapuranam also mentions about this place and calls it the Konattukkodinagaram, ‘apex-town-of-Konadu’).
The Kodumbalur tract was mostly under Irukkuvel Chiefs from the middle of the 6th century AD to the middle of the 9th century AD. During the same period the Muttaraiyars had been ruling the adjoining areas falling in Pudukkottai, Tiruchirappalli and Thanjavur tracts. Both these ruling chiefs constantly changed their allegiance with one or the other of the greater powers, the Pallavas and the Pandyas. The monuments and inscriptions of this period (6th-9th centuries AD) relate to the Muttaraiyars, the Irukkuvels, the Pandyas and the Pallavas.
Kodumbalur is mentioned as the scene of a few wars in the 8th century. In one of them, the Pandya King Maravarman Rajasimha (740 – 765 AD) defeated the Pallava King Nandivarman Pallavamalla. The Sendalai Records attribute a victory at Kodumbalur to Perumbidugu Suvaran Maran (first half of 8th century), a Muttaraiyar chief and who is mentioned as having defeated the Pandyas and the Cheras. It is not known whether these were two different battles or only two different but contradictory versions of the same war.
After the famous battle of Thiruppurambiyam (880 AD), wherein the Chozhas inflicted a crushing defeat on the Pallavas and the Pandyas, the territories of the Muttaraiyar-s and the Irukkuvel-s came under the Chozhas.
The inscriptions in these areas often indicate matrimonial relations among the various kings – the Pandyas, the Muttaraiyars, the Irukkuvels, the Pallavas and the Chozhas – in addition to political relations.
For a long spell between 9th and 14th centuries, Kodumbalur was under the Chozhas and the later Pandyas. The town must have been finally destroyed during the Muslim invasions in 14th century.
During the Chozha times Kodumbalur was a flourishing town and had at least two nagarams (assembles of merchants). It had a manigramam (corporation of merchants or trade guild). These institutions were either associated or affiliated to the great guild or corporation known as the Ainurruvar, ‘assembly of five hundred’).
Irukkuvel Dynasty of Kodumbalur
Kodumbalur was the seat of a flourishing state, ruled by a dynasty of Velirs called Irukkuvels, who were connected by blood with the Chozhas, but politically were subordinate to them. They have played a very important part in the moulding of South Indian history and politics.
The Velirs claimed to be Yadavas from Dvarasamudram in Karnataka, and one of the chiefs assumed the title of Yaduvamsa. Idangazhi Nayanar, a revered Saint is one of the 63 Saiva saints and mentioned in the Thiruththandakam by Sundaramoorthy Nayanar (6th - 7th centuries), was a king of this dynasty. The Chozha king, Vijayalaya (about 830 - 850 AD), the founder of the Imperial Chozha line, and his son Adithya, were connected with this dynasty.
The Sanskrit inscription (PSI 14) in Grantha characters in the Muvarkoyil gives the genealogy of the Irukkuvels from a king whose name is, unfortunately, illegible, to Bhuthivikramakesari (last quarter of 9th century), perhaps the greatest of them all.
The Irukkuvels would appear to have surfaced as a power at a time that is coeval with Pandya King Maravarman Rajasimha-I (730 - 765 AD) and to have continued up to the rise of the Chozha of the Vijayalaya  line (middle of 9th century AD). They continued their independent status thus far. Later, they appear to get closely affiliated in a subservient capacity to the Imperial Chozha-s.
The arrangement continued through the reigns of Bhuthi Vikramakesari's sons Parantaka and Adithya and ending with Siriya velar, a son of Parantaka  serving Sundara Chozha (957 - 973 AD) as general in the army. The Irukkuvels, as the staunch allies and vassals of the Chozhas, helped them in all their battles. We do not hear much of the Irukkuvel-s after the reign of Rajendra Chozha-I (1012-1044 AD).
Once a flourishing town under the Chozhas and the Pandyas, it was a city of temples like Kanchi and Kumbakonam. According to tradition, this place once contained 108 Siva temples. It is supported by the discovery of a large number of lingams, Nandis and other sculptures in the area. But nothing remains now of the past glory of Kodumbalur except the beautiful Muvar-koil  and Muchukundesvara koil . These temples hold an honoured place in the evolution of both south Indian temple architecture and sculpture.
There are remnants of an Aivar koil which was perhaps the only one of its kind in Tamilnadu or even South India. There is also a large stone nandi  in the village near to the road.
Monuments in Kodumbalur:
Connectivity
Kodumbalur is located on Pudukkottai – Kudumiyamalai - Manapparai main road about 35 kilometers from Pudukkottai. And it lies 5 kilometers away from Tiruchi – Madurai highway. Bus facility is available from Viralimalai and Manapparai.
Viralimalai and Manapparai are two major towns near Kodumbalur. It is about 5 km from NH 45B, Tiruchirappalli - Tovarankurichchi, little after you pass Viralimalai.
Important Info
Presently, the first three monuments, that is the Muvarkoyil, the Muchukundesvara koil and the remnants of the Aivar koil, are protected monuments and under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Also they are no more under worship.
There is an ASI counter at the Muvarkoyil and a staff will be there on duty. The monuments will be open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM. There are no holidays. There is an entry fee of Rs. 5 for Indian citizens and Rs. 100 (US$ 2) for foreigners for the Muvarkoyil.

Entry to all other monuments is free.