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Saturday, December 12, 2015

Narthamalai, Pudukottai

Narthamalai, Pudukottai
Narthamalai, a cluster of small hills, is 25 km from Trichy on the Trichy - Pudukottai highway in the state of Tamil NaduIndia. Here can be seen some of the oldest rock cut cave temples, as well as the longest rock-cut edicts, similar to Asokan edicts and extremely rare in the south of India. The town houses Vijayalaya Choleeswaram built during the 9th century. The two rock – cut temples are classic examples of how temple architecture styles were fusing in different parts of the country.


Narttamalai is one of the sites of national renown. There are two rock-cut temples, Pazhiyili Isvaram and Samanar kudagu, and one magnificent structural temple called Vijayalaya Chozhisvaram, which is a marvellous piece of art, on the hill. There is a famous living temple of Mariamman. The Kadambar temple at the foot of a hill nearby is another beautiful temple. The natural cavern of Aluruttimalai contains polished stone beds and other Jaina vestiges.


There is a thin forest surrounding south-east part of the region and hence it comes under the forest reserve area. As per a mythological legend when Hanuman was carrying Sanjeevani hill, few shrubs fell over this part of region making it famous for a variety of magic shrubs. A legend stated in Perungalur Sthala Puranam states that the name Narthamalai is derived from the sage Narada, and calls it Naradar malai.


Narthamalai, which at present is a very small village, was a sprawling trading center in olden days. The name Narthamalai is probably derived from Nagarattar malai where Nagarattar refer to a mercantile community, also known as Nattukkottai Chettiyars. As per a Chola inscription, a Nagarattar sold a land for conducting daily worship in the larger cave temple. 


Narthamalai is referred as Annavayil-kurram, a sub division in Keralantaka valanadu alias Konadu during the regime of the Chola king Rajaraja I. Later this region is referred as Irattappadi kondachola valanadu during the regime of the Chola king Kulottunga I. The region is referred as Telingakula kalapuram alias Kulottungacholapattinam during the Pandya rule.


Before the advent of the Pallavas, Narthamalai would have been under the early Cholas or early Pandyas. From the time of the Pallavas, from 7th to 9th century CE, it was under the sway of the Muttaraiyars who were the vassals of the Pallava kings. Once Pandyas were on rise, Muttaraiyars changed their loyalty from the Pallavas to Pandyas.


In the last decade of the ninth century CE, the Cholas washed out the Pallavas completely and took over the control over the vast area of Tamilnadu. Within the span of hundred years, they also wiped out the Pandyas and became the sole sovereignty of the southern part of India, mostly Tamilnadu.


Narthamalai Village
Narttamalai is the name given to a group of low hills and a village that lies nestled at their foot. The hill group consists of nine hills, they are listed as below;
1.    Melamalai
2.    Kottaimalai
3.    Aluruttimalai
4.    Kadambar Malai
5.    Paraiyanmalai
6.    Uvachchanmalai
7.    Manmalai
8.    Bommadimalai 
9.    Ponmalai.
Melamalai or Western hill is also called Samanarmalai and sometimes Sivan malai. To the southeast of the village is a reserved forest.


Etymology
There are at least two mythological stories currently connected with the name of the village. A legend declares that the group of the hills is actually fragments of the Sanjiva Parvatam that fell here when Hanuman flung it back from Lanka. The Narttamalai hills are said to contain many rare medicinal herbs - which fact explains the currency of the story. The Perungalur Sthalapuranam derives the name Narttamalai from the sage Narada, and calls it Naradar malai.
More probable is that the name was derived from the word Nagarattar malai, or the hill of the Nagarattars. Nagarattars is the name of the mercantile community called Nattukkottai Chettiyars, or simply Chettiyars. It was a centre of the ancient south Indian merchant guild - the Nanadesi 500 - and was a nagaram or a mercantile centre.


The Chettiyars, also known as Nagarattars of the present day are their lineal descendants, and they inhabit now, what is known today as Chettinad, an area beginning from Pudukkottai and extending southwards till about Sivaganga.



Historical Background
These hills were in early times the abode of Jaina ascetics. The natural cavern at Aluruttimalai, one of the Narttamalai group has traces of 'beds' similar to those at Ezhadippattam in Sittannavasal, where Jaina monks practiced austerities. More of such Jaina caverns and Jaina vestiges are to be found on the southern flank of Kudagumalai. Kudagumalai is in front of Aluruttimalai, on the east across the high road and nearer the railway track.

Melamalai with its caverns and caves is, in fact, also known as Samanarmalai ('hill of the Jainas). Narttamalai appears to have been an important Jaina centre with temples and monasteries and also a mercantile centre (Nagaram) as attested by inscriptions. The local merchants were Silayachettis, according to the inscriptions.
During the 7th to 9th centuries Narttamalai was part of the Pallava Empire, but was directly administrated by Muttaraiyars. The cave temple known as Pazhiyili Isvaram appears to have been excavated during the time of the Pallava Nandi Varman III (about 826 – 849 AD) by a Muttaraiyar chief Sattanpazhiyili, son of Videlvidugu Muttaraiyan as stated in the inscription on this temple dated in the seventh year of the Pallava emperor Nripatunga Varman (about 849 – 875 AD). This region was apparently been disputed by the Pandya-s and the Chozhas till about the middle of the 9th century when Vijayalaya Chozha incorporated it in the Chozha empire after defeating the Muttaraiyar.

During the reign of Raja Raja I (about 985 – 1014 AD) Narttamalai was called Telungakulakalapuram after one of the titles of the king. The Kadambarkoil was built about the close of the 10th century. There are inscriptions here of the reigns of Rajendra II and Kulottunga I. During the last years of the reign of Kulottunga III, Narttamalai came under Pandya rule. Rajendra III probably recovered it, since there is an inscription of his reign relating to this temple building, activities, but very soon it again passed into the hands of the Pandyas.

Narttamalai could have come under the rule of the Madurai Sultans for about 50 years in the 14th century until the Vijayanagara dynasty re-conquered the south. The only Vijayanagara inscription here, however, is dated 1431 AD and is in the reign of Devaraya II. Narttamalai came later under the direct rule of the Madurai Nayaks.
Akkalraja, a Vijayanagara nobleman was persuaded on his way to Rameswaram to settle in this tract and put down the lawless Visenginattu Kallars. He lived in a fort on the Narttamalai hills. We hear of Akkachi, a Pallava rayar princess, employing a Kallar warrior of the Kachiran sect to slay Akkalraja and bring his head. When Akkalraja was thus killed, his seven wives committed sati by throwing themselves into a pyre prepared near Nochikkanmai by the side of the Narttamalai hills. The decedents of these Nayaks or Raja settlers live in the adjoining place called Uppilikkudi, even today and are called Uppilikkudi Rajas.

The Tondaimans acquired Narttamalai from the Pallavarayars. Owing to its natural advantages for defence it was for long used as a military station, and traces new exist of fort walls and citadels.

Local Assemblies (Nagarams)
The earliest references to local assemblies are in the period of 7th - 9th centuries. The Nagaram of Narttamalai came into prominence in about the 10th century, and, as a unit of local administration, it flourished for many centuries. It controlled the temples, received and managed gifts for them, controlled taxation, effected sales and other modes of conveyance of land, exempted land from tax, distributed among its members the revenue – survey and accounts work of the village and functioned through an executive body of its own creation. Silayachettis, who often bore the names of Chozha or Pandya kings, seem to have been the chief mercantile class in this.

The Vishnu shrine in the Melamalai cave is called Padhinen bhumi Vinnagaram, evidently after the ‘eighteen towns’ of the ‘Ainnurruvar’ (assembly of five hundred), and we may conclude that this Nagaram was associated with or affiliated to the great corporation of Ainurruvar. By 14th and 15th centuries, from the inscriptions mentioning only about Ur or village assembly, it is possible that the mercantile community had at that time migrated from this place.

Tourism
Narthamalai is located 11 miles Northeast West of Pudukottai in the state of Tamil Nadu, India. The cave temples of Narthamalai have stood the test of time. Its beautifully carved pillars and statues will never give away that these temples date all the way back to the early medieval era. Narthamalai has six large, skillfully carved of Lord Vishnu in the central hall. A life size portrait of Lord Vishnu will leave the visitors speechless with the levels of skill, effort and the time taken to create it.

The vijayalayacholeswara temple here is the most beautiful structure in Narthamalai hills. There is another Historical event occurred here, The Thanjai Periya Kovil was built with the stones taken from this mountain only, during Chola's Empire.

There are many monuments of interest & interesting places at Narthamalai are listed as below;
Connectivity
Narttamalai is situated on the western side of the Tiruchirappalli – Pudukkottai highway. One can reach the Narttamalai village by taking a diversion from the Tiruchirappalli – Pudukkottai highway at Narttamalai bus stop. The village is about 2 kilometers from the highway, on the western side.
Narttamalai village is 17 kilometers from Pudukkottai and 14 kilometers from Kiranur which is an important junction in Tiruchirappalli – Pudukkottai highway.
Narttamalai also has a railway station where the metre gauge passenger trains running in Tiruchirappalli - Karaikudi route have a stop.

It is well connected by road also from Trichy & Pudukottai.  Nearest airport is Trichy which is also a major railhead.