Vallam
Cave Temples, Kanchipuram
Vallam
Cave Temples are located in Vallam, a small village near Chengalpattu in
Kanchipuram District of Tamilnadu. These Temples are dedicated to Vedhaantheeswarar
& Giri Varadharaja Perumal. Vallam has a beautiful small hillock on which three
rock-cut shrines are carved on the eastern face of the hill. Two caves are on
same boulder one above the other cave, while the third is located little north
of the previous ones.
There
are steps leading to the temples. According to the inscriptions found, these
temples are said to have been built during the period of Mahendra Varma
Pallava. Inscriptions also reveal the ancient name of the place as Valla Naadu
under Kalathur Kottam. The top of the hill provides a wonderful view of
Chengalpattu and Kolavai Lake, particularly during sunset. The site is called
as 'Malai Kovil' by the locals.
On the
left hand side there is a temple for Shiva called Vedhaantheeswarar. Goddess
here is Sri Gnanambikai. This is perhaps the only place where one can have Dharshan
of Sri Vinayagar, Sri Subramanyar, Lord Shiva, Sri Ambaal and Sri Sandikeswarar
from the same place where we stand. Lord Muruga here is called as Sri Muthukumaraswami.
It is
said that, in this temple, during Pradoshams, the Abishegams are first performed
to Dwarapalakas and then to Sri Vedhaantheeswarar and finally to Sri Nandikeswarar.
Now a concrete structure is built around this temple for convenience. It is
said that during the sunrise, the rays from the Sun fall directly on the Lord
like a garland.
The
temple pond is called as Sivaganga Pushkarani, the water from which is used for
Abishegams to the Gods. Pradoshams and all other Saivite and Vaishnavite
festivals are done here at these temples. On usual days, priest visits the
temple once a day for daily rituals. But one can have Dharshan even in the
absence of the priest.
Details
of the Cave temples are briefed as below;
Cave No 1:
This is
the uppermost rock of this hill. It has been closed on all sides with iron
grills as the cave is still in use as a live temple. The front façade of the
cave is supported in two pillars and two pilasters. This arrangement divides
the cave into three openings as seen in many earlier caves like Mandagapatu, Dalavanur, Kuranganilmuttam, Mahendravadi, Mamandur
Cave 1 and Seeyamangalam. Both pillars and pilasters are differentiating
into cubical top and bottom (saduram) and octagonal middle part (kattu).
There
are two inscriptions on the front top cubical faces of the pillars. The corbels
are curved; however curve is not very prominent so this looks like in angular
profile. As also seen in other caves of the same period, this cave also has two
rows of pillars and pilasters, hence partitioning this
into ardha-mandapa and mukha-mandapa. There are two small
niches, beyond the pilasters of the front row. These niches are not aligned
with the cave, so it looks that these were excavated later after excavation of
the cave.
The
niche of southern side has an image of Ganesha. As his trunk is turned to
his right so it is Valampuri Ganesha. He is seated in simhasana, and
his one hand is resting on a small platform on his left side. He is depicted
with four hands; in upper left is a broken lotus stalk while the upper right
hand attribute is not very clear. His lower right hand is resting on his thigh.
The overall sculpture is graceful with good proportional ratios.
On
northern niche is a much worn out image of Jyestha. She is shown seated on
a platform with her legs down on the ground. She is wearing conical makuta.
Her usual two companions are missing in this image. On the back wall of the
cave is cut a cell in the center. There is a pair of dvarpalas at the
entrance, while inside the cell is placed a Shiva lingam. The top and
bottom part of the lingam is made of separate stones, and it is assumed that
perhaps this was placed after excavations.
The door
jambs of the cell are plane cubical throughout. There is a Nandi,
installed opposite to this shrine, facing it. This Nandi, out of single stone,
would have been placed as a later addition only. The most of the cave is painted;
hence many of the original features are hidden below this paint surface.
Dvarapalas:
The dvarapalas of
the shrine can be rated as the best among all the contemporary caves
of Mahendra’s time. They clearly show the characteristics of
the Shiva Ayudha – purusha, trisula and parasu. The dvarapalas are
carved in relief in the niche, formed by pilasters, at the entrance of the
central cell. The Dvarpala on southern side is shown standing
in tribhanga posture, with one hand on his waist and other one is
resting over his club.
The
massive club is on his left side; its handle is almost into his left armpit.
The club is entwined with a serpent. Dvarapala is wearing
huge patra-kundalas, keyuras, valayas, necklace,
and yajnopavita. He is standing slightly turned towards the shrine with
cross-legged. Behind his makuta are two protruding prongs
of trisula, which suggests that
this dvarpala is ayudha-purusha representing trisula
of Shiva.
The dvarpala on
northern side is similar in posture as of the previous one. Instead of
entwining around his club, the serpent is seen entwined around his body. The
interesting feature to notice is the protruding axe-blade out of
his makuta, which represents the ayudha-purusha character
of parasu, a weapon (Ayudha) of Shiva. So
both ayudha-purusha of Shiva are guarding the shrine.
Inscriptions:
There
are three inscriptions in this cave. Two inscriptions are in early
Tamil Pallava and third one is later Tamil probably of
the Cholas time.
Inscription
1 – This single line inscription on the south pillar upper cubical face
gives two titles of Mahendravarman. This inscription is written in early
Tamil, engraved in Pallava Grantha script.
Inscription
2 – This four line inscription, written in early Tamil, engraved in
Pallava Grantha script, is on the upper face of the north pillar.
Inscription
3 – This inscription, in Tamil, is engraved on the lower face of the
southern pillar. This is a thirteenth century inscription of Kopperunjinga Deva.
Cave No 2:
This
small cave is excavated below the first cave, on the same boulder. The
present cave is not under worship, this simple cave has no pillars to form
a mandapa. A cell is directly cut into the back wall, and the wall is used
to form niches to carve out dvarpalas. The oblong entrance led into the
cell which has a Shiva lingam installed. The dvarpalas are
very much worn out, and as no care has been taken up so it ruining further.
There is
a Ganesha image, on southern side, beyond the dvarpala. Ganesha is
shown seated over a lotus; his trunk is turned to right so depicts Valampuri
Ganesha. A similar Ganesha is also seen in the above cave.
The excavation of this cave seems to have been carried out quite later compared to the above cave.
Dvarpalas:
There is
a pair of dvarpalas at the entrance of the shrine. Both are similar
in many attributes, standing in tribhanga posture, slightly turned
towards the shrine. One hand is on waist and another hand is hanging sideway to
the club. The handle of the club is into their armpits.
Inscriptions:
No
inscriptions are found in this cave.
Cave No 3:
This is the
northern most caves among the three caves at Vallam. This cave is
dedicated to Vishnu and locally known as Karivaradaraja Perumal
temple. A simple creation, without any mandapa, a cell is cut into the
vertical farce of the rock. This vertical farce allows provisions
for dvarpalas on side. Though there are no pillars and pilasters,
however we see a simulation of corbel style though without any support of
the pillars. The corbels are angular here.
Central
cell has an image of Vishnu with his two consorts, a later addition
of course. On the northern end, beyond the dvarpala, is a relief sculpture
of Durga. She is totally blackened with continuous anointment of oil;
hence her original features are not very clear. She is standing
in sambhaga posture. In her four hands, she carries
a shankha and chakra in upper two hands. One lower hand is
on her waist and other lower hand is in abhaya mudra. Durga images
are an unusual feature of a Vishnu Temple but you can see Durga images in
other Vishnu temples of the Pallavas, such as in Singavaram
Cave Temple , Adi
– Varaha Cave Temple , Mahishasuramardhini
Cave, Trimurti
Cave, Varaha
Cave all at Mahabalipuram.
In most
of these places, Durga is shown as Mahishasuramardhini, except
at Varaha Cave and Draupadi
Ratha where the theme is Kotavarai. This image here
looks similar to the Draupadi Ratha in appearance, however one
in Draupadi Ratha is quite elaborate and ornamented and the theme is
also different. This cave has been excavated probably after the time
of Rajasimha (700-728 CE).
Dvarpalas:
The dvarapalas here
are somewhat similar to the dvarapalas of the inner shrine of Dalavanur
Cave Temple. However
where Dalavanur is a Shiva temple, this cave here is dedicated
to Vishnu. Both the dvarapalas here are similar in appearance,
standing in tribhanga posture, slightly turned towards the shrine.
One hand is on their waist and one hand is raised in adoration. They are
wearing a patra-kundala and a makara-kundala in their ears.
Both are standing on slightly raised platform.
Inscriptions:
There is
no inscription found in this cave.
Connectivity
Vallam is
about 3 kms from Chengalpattu, located on Chengalpattu –Mahabalipuram road.
There is a small board, on your left side, where is a road going inside to the rock-cut
shrines. On this road, Vallam Church is also
located. Chengalpattu is a big town, which can be easily reached
from Kanchi or Chennai. While going from Chennai, one has to
take left from Chengalpattu on the Mahabalipuram Road and Vallam is located on
the 3rd Km from Chengalpattu. A small pathway from the main road
leads to the village.
References