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Monday, August 20, 2018

Samanar Hills – Jain Temples & Caves

Samanar Hills – Jain Temples & Caves
Samanar means Jain in Tamil. It is derived from the Sanskrit Shramana, which refers to all hermits, not just Jains, or more specifically those who prefer meditation and austerities to Vedic in all matters spiritual. Malai is Tamil for hill. The Samanar Hills stands in the village of Keezh Kuyil Kudi, just 10 Kms outside Madurai. Samanar hill is largely composed of granite. In the interior part of the hill are numerous caves. It is a vital archeological site and home for countless insectivorous bats of 9 species. For thousands of years bats have been perching in these eight caves of Samanar Hills and are actually found to be dangerous to the wellbeing of local atmosphere. However, insectivorous bats are significant marauders, who include the night flying insects in their diet. Many of these insects are regarded as crop pests. Thus, bats are important in this leading agricultural region.


It is home to prehistoric caves and carvings dating back to around 1 A.D where Tamil Jain monks lived. Several Tamil-Brahmi inscriptions, stone beds and sculptures found here demonstrates the strong influence of Jainism on the ancient Tamil society through. On the top of the hillock, there are naturally formed rocks that resemble the shape of a crocodile. An enduring fountain can also be spotted on top of the hillock that flows strangely, without any source.


Geographically, Samanarmalai is an extensive complex of low rocky hills stretching more than three km. The hill contains two famous Jain monuments, Settipodavu and Pechipallam, that show images of Jain Tirthankaras made by Jain monks in the 9th century CE. The Settipodavu contains the image of Mahavira, the last Tirthankara of Jainism. Settipodavu is situated at the base of the Hills. There’s a stunning bas relief of Mahavira with two attendants on one side and further inside, several others and a Yakshi, a spirit nymph in Jain mythology. Today, Yesakki and Petchi are common names in southern Tamil Nadu and both are modifications of this Sanskrit word – they have become Hindu names now but bear an ancient link to the country’s Jain past.


The inscriptions here are from the 9th-10th centuries and mention the names and details of the donors for the bas reliefs. The Pechipallam contains eight sculptures, including Mahavira, Bahubali, Gomateshwara, Yaksha and Yakshi with Brahmi inscriptions can be seen at the entrance of the cave and different points in the vicinity of the cave. Pechipallam is situated one level above Settipodavu. A further level above Pechipallam and a level below the newly discovered Tamil-Brahmi cave are remains of a Jain structure up to the basement level. A hillock with Jain vestiges adjoining Samanarmalai tragically collapsed in the late1990s, due to heavy quarrying nearby.


The Samanarmalai complex, in the wider sense, includes the adjacent hills at Muttupatti and Kongarpuliyankulam, which have caves with a large number of stone beds, besides Tamil-Brahmi inscriptions dating from the 2nd century B.C.E. The recent discovery has pushed back the historicity of Samanarmalai to well over 2,000 years, coeval with the earliest Tamil-Brahmi inscriptions. It appears that the caves with very numerous stone beds in the Samanarmalai region served as places of retreat for the Jain monks of the Tirukkattampalli monastery during the rainy season.


Beside the spring are several holes on the floor and a vertical rock face, indicative of pandals that were created with wooden poles and thatched roofs. These would have been places for the school that existed in the village. Inscriptions list more names of students who commissioned the bas reliefs. Close by, was once a stone temple of which only the foundation remains. It received a gift in ACE 889 during the reign of Veera Narayana Pandya from his queen Vanavan Mahadevi. One wonders who owns the land in the Konkarpuliaykunram village that the queen gave to this temple today.


The oldest inscription on the hill records the creation of a stone bed by a native of nearby Thenur in 2nd century BCE. These caves were the homes of many Jain monks during ancient era. At the entrance of the caves, created to ensure that rainwater does not go into the cave but trickles away from it by the side. Then you see the fabulous carvings on the walls—stark lines with minimal ornamentation. One can see various religiously significant sculptures of Gomateshwara, Mahavira, Yakshi and Yaksha. In the foothills, there lies a temple called as the Karupusamy temple and a lotus pond. It has a perennial pool of water, a reason why the monks probably favored this hill.


It also has a large sculpture with the images of many Thirthankars, including Mahavir (identified with his symbol, the lion) and Parshva (identified by the hooded serpent over his head). Even though Samanar Hills is regarded as a sheltered nationalized monumental and is a famous place for the tourists, who hire a bus and visit this spot for a memorable picnic. The local villagers also find this place vey holy and call it, sacred hills. The hill has been declared as a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India.


Samanar Malai is an ideal spot to spend some quiet time amid the pious surrounding of religiously significant place. These hills present a refreshing setting, different from other sightseeing places in Madurai. It is often visited by people to meditate. Calmness and spiritual serenity of these hills is sure to leave every visitor rejuvenated. The view of the surroundings areas from the top of the hill is also worth climbing the hill. It is also an interesting place to visit for those who seek adventure. Trekking up to the hills and exploring the areas nearby will give you the opportunity to spend some time with flora and fauna of this place.
Ancient Jain School:
According to archaeological findings, there used to be Jain school at the top of the hills. The discoveries through the Tamil and Kannada engravings demonstrate that there was a Jain religious School at the highest point of the slope known as Maadevi Perumpalli, where many Jain monks and nuns used to come to receive education. It is said that kings of Pandyan Dynasty also visited this school as well as many senior monks from Shravanabelagola of Karnataka also studied here.
This was the central seat of authority for Jainism in the Tamil country, even as Shravanabelagola is for the Jains of Karnataka. Inscriptions (12th century C.E.) on the basement of the ruined Jain temple above Pechipallam refer to visits of senior Jain monks from Shravanabelagola, some of whom chose to end their lives through Sallekhana (fast unto death) on the Samanarmalai hill. Here is clear evidence that the fame of Samanarmalai had spread beyond the borders of the ancient Tamil country.