Sittannavasal, Pudukottai
Sittannavasal is a small village in Pudukkottai district
and is world famous for its fresco paintings in the rock-cut Jaina cave temple.
Sittannavasal has an important place in the history of Tamilnadu. The
megalithic monuments such as stone-circles, urn burials and cists spread in the
plains of this village testify that this area was inhabited by pre-historic
man.
Sittannavasal is known primarily for its mural paintings
in the Jaina rock-cut cave temple called Arivar koil. These paintings are
second only in importance after Ajanta paintings in the art history of India.
There is a natural cavern, called Ezhadippattam, with polished rock beds of
Jaina ascetics. These rock beds contain Tamil inscriptions.
The oldest is a Tamil Brahmi inscription, the oldest in
the district, and was being considered till recently as belonging to the 3rd
century BC. According to the recent study by Iravatham Mahadevan, it is dated
to the 1st century BC. Sittannavasal is perhaps the only place where
you can find inscriptions in Tamil from the 1st century BC to the 10th century
AD. The Navachchunai, with its submerged cave temple, would interest those who
are adventurous.
There are a number of explanations or interpretations
about the derivation of the name. One of such explanations says that Sittannavasal
is a corruption of Chir-ran-nal-vaa-yil (‘abode of great saints’). Another
explanation says that this hill, once a part of a suburb of Annalvayil, could
have come to be called Chirrannalvaayil (Chiru-annal-vaayil –
‘smaller-Annal-Vaayil’). Yet another version interprets that the name could be
a derivation from Siddhaanaam vaasah, a word of northern origin, becoming Siddhannavaasah
and then Sittannavasal. In the Tamil Brahmi inscription mentioned before, the
name of this place is mentioned as ‘Chiru-posil’.
Sittannavasal monuments, particularly the Jaina cave
temple, are well known. The cave temple is of great importance because of its
paintings. But those who visit the cave temple with high hopes are likely to be
somewhat disappointed. The main reason is that precious little of the paintings
remain. This should sadden anyone.
Further, the cave temple itself is rather small,
particularly when compared with those at Ajanta, with which the paintings of
Sittannavasal are often compared. The glory of Sittannavasal is not in its
extent, but the exquisite style that can be seen even in whatever that remains.
Perhaps Sittannavasal reminds us of the past glory and of our present
insensitivity to our heritage.
Geography
The Sittannavasal village is about 20 kilometers
(12 mi) to the north of Pudukottai, just before Annavasal village and about 58 kilometers (36 mi)
from Trichy. The entrance to the village has a welcome arch. Within
its geographical setting there is a prominent hill of 70 metres (230 ft)
height, which runs in the north-south direction, where many Jaina
cave monuments are located.
Megalithic sites of the 1st century BC have also been
excavated near the village, on the road to the monuments. It was a flourishing
village during the Jaina period from the 7th to 9th century AD. Before
entering the Sittannavasal and on the road to the monuments, remains of
prehistoric burial sites are seen. The Jain natural caverns, called
Ezhadippattam are approached from the foothills. On the western slope of the
central part of the hill is the cave temple which is approached by climbing a
few 100 steps.
Historical Background
The village was settled during the megalithic period
from the 1st century BC according to excavations of several megalithic sites
near the village. Jainism flourished here from 1st century BC to 10th
century AD. The Arivarkovil or the Temple cave is initially dated to Pallava King Mahendravarman
I (580-630AD) prior to his conversion from Jainism to Hinduism. The village later fell under the reign of the Pandyans in Tamil Nadu, and an inscription attributes
renovation of the cave to a Pandyan king, probably Maran Sendan (654- 670AD)
or Arikesari Maravarman (670-700AD). The Jain beds on the hill top
indicate a Jaina
era pilgrimage centre which lasted till the 9th
century CE.
Sittannavasal is one of the oldest inhabited sites in
the District, perhaps the oldest. Megalithic burial sites in this village
testify that the areas around the hillock having been inhabited by iron-age men.
Just before the beginning of the Christian era, this was a flourishing centre
of Jaina influence, where Jainism flourished for over 1000 years, from 1st
century BC to 10th century AD. During 7th – 9th
centuries, the Arivar koil, the rock-cut cave temple, had been excavated. There
is nothing much known after that.
The Monuments
The archaeological monuments found in the area
surrounding Sittannavasal village are the architectural features of the Arivar
Kovil (Sittannavasal Cave), on the western side of the hill towards the north
and the painting and sculptures found within its precincts, the Jaina beds,
also known as Ekadipattam or Ezhadippattam in a natural cavern on the eastern
side of the hill, the Samavasarana, an a place of assembly of a Tirthankara in the form of mural paintings on the roof of the
cave temple, megalithic burial urns, stone circles, cairns, dolmens, cists from
the Iron Age called mudu-makkal-thaazhi, and a submerged tarn called the Navach-Chunai to the north of
the natural cavern in the hill. The Archaeological Survey of India is
responsible for the maintenance of the Arivar Kovil and the Jaina beds.
Sittannavasal is a world famous site in the district. In
the village is a large rocky hillock which is about 200 feet in height and run
north to south. There are four interesting monuments on and around this rocky
hill.
The Arivar Koil
The Sittannavasal Cave, also known as Arivar Kovil, is a
Jain monastery of the 7th century, small in size, excavated in a bluff on the
western slope of the hill in its centre. It is noted for its paintings which
have been painted in fresco-secco technique with many mineral colours. The painting
themes depict a beautiful lotus pond and flowers, people collecting lotuses
from the pond, two dancing figures, lilies, fish, geese, buffaloes and
elephants. Mulk Raj Anand said of the paintings, "Pallava craftsmen
used greens and browns and puqiles, with a genuine ability and a lyrical flow
of line. Lotuses spring up from imaginary ponds amid variegated greenery, under
a bluish sheen." In addition, inscriptions of the 9th and 10th
century are also seen. The exquisite ceiling of the Ardhamandapam is decorated
with murals from the 7th century.
The cave temple has placid pillars and sculptures
of Jain Thirthankaras. However, most of the frescoes which were covered fully
in plaster have been severely defaced or not clearly visible due to inadequate
security and maintenance resulting in vandalism in the past five or six
decades. Originally, the entire cave temple, including the sculptures, was
covered with plaster and painted. The paintings are on the theme of Jaina Samavasarana, the "most attractive heavenly pavilion",
referring to the attainment of Nirvana and Khatika bhumi.
On the western side of the hill, in the northern side,
is the celebrated Jaina rock cut cave temple called, Arivar Koil (temple of the Arhats).
It has relics of paintings of 9th century AD. These paintings are second only in
importance after Ajanta paintings
and have an important place in the Indian art history.
For brief details, Please refer the below link;
The Ezhadippattam
Ezhadippattam or Jaina beds are a natural cave, marked
by a horizontal floor space which is laid out with well-polished rock beds that
were used by Jaina ascetics. There are seventeen beds at the top marked on the
floor. These carved beds have headrests cut in them in the form of a raised
pillow. The oldest Tamil Brahmi inscriptions seen inscribed on the beds are dated
to the 3rd century BC, although recent research by Iravatham Mahadevan dates it
to the First Century BC and extending to the 10th Century AD. On one of the
oldest and largest beds, the inscription in Tamil is of Tamil Brahmi script of
the 1st century BC, considered as the oldest lithic record of South
India. Also, names of
ascetics who engaged in sallekhana
(fasting unto death) are written on their respective
beds.
On the eastern side is the natural cavern called Ezhadippattam
with polished rock beds where Jaina ascetics practiced severest penance, for
more than a thousand years since 1st century BC. It contains a 1st century BC
Brahmi inscription and innumerable other Tamil inscription.
For brief details, Please refer the link below;
Megalithic Burial Sites
Excavations carried out in 1934-35 in the Sittannavasal
village have revealed many Megalithic burial sites near the hill, which are in the form
of both cist and urn burials. These are located on both sides of the road leading
from the monuments to the main road, after about 100 metres (330 ft) from
the Ezhadippattam; more are seen on the left side of the road leading to
Pudukkottai.
Antiquaries collected from the sites also include
specimens of garnet, red jasper and rock crystal at the foot of the hill have
been picked up near the foot of the hill, pottery pieces with coating of molten
and coloured glass inside, and also small pieces of coloured glass; all these
are indicative of glass manufacturing in the area.
There are megalithic monuments like urn-burials, stone
circles and cists in plenty, near to the hillock.
For Brief details, Please refer the link below;
Navachunai
Jambunatha’s Cave or Navach-Chunai, in the style of late
Pandya temples of the 13th century AD, is a tarn located between Ezhadippattam and Arivar Kovil
caves. It is on the eastern slope on the central part of the hills. This is a
small rock-cut temple which is submerged in a small lake (tarn). Hill climbing
is required to reach the cave temple. An old Jambu tree ((Syzygium jambolanum) is seen near the lake, which gives its name to the
cave. It is a Shiva temple with a lingam in the centre, which is worshiped by baling out
water from the lake.
To the north of the natural cavern, on the eastern slope
of the rock is a small rock-cut temple submerged in a tarn, called Navachunai. It
requires some amount of rock climbing and trekking to reach there.
For brief details, Please refer the link below;
Other Interesting Sites
For other interesting sites in Sittannavasal, Please
refer the link below;
ASI Protected Monuments
Presently, the Jaina cave temple, the natural cavern
called Ezhadippattam, and the megalithic burial sites are protected monuments
and are under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
There are ASI staffs available in the Jaina cave temple
and Ezhadippattam.
Opening & Closing Time
Open from 9.00 am to 5.30 pm
Entrance Fees
Fee:
Citizens of India and visitors of SAARC (Bangladesh,
Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives and Afghanistan) and BIMSTEC
Countries (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar) - Rs. 5
per head.
Others:
US $ 2 or Indian Rs. 100/- per head (Free entry to
children up to 15 years)
Reaching the Monuments
On the road before one takes a turn to enter
Sittannavasal and on the roads leading to the monuments, there are remains of megalithic
burial sites.
Following this road, off the main road, one reaches the foothills
of the hillock at which the road takes a left turn. It is from here one starts
the climb to the Jaina caverns containing stone beds.
Further traveling on the road would take you to the
western slope of the central hillock. From here one makes a short climb of some
steps to reach the Jaina cave temple, and its world famous mural paintings.
Visitors are suggested to start with the Arivar Koil and
then visit the Ezhadippattam.
Connectivity
Sittannavasal is located on Pudukkottai – Annavasal
– Viralimalai main road about 16 km from Pudukkottai. The village lies to the
right of the road from Pudukkottai to Annavasal. There are few
buses plying on this route, better to take a private taxi.
The Sittannavasal village is 12 kilometers north-west of
Pudukkottai, in the Pudukkottai – Annavasal route. One can reach the village
and the monuments by taking a diversion from the Pudukkottai – Annavasal road,
2 km before Annavasal to the right. An arch put up by the Government welcomes
the visitors to the village.
Nearest Railway Station is Pudukottai & Nearest
Major Railway Station is Trichy.
Nearest Airport is Trichy Airport.