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Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Sittannavasal, Pudukottai

Sittannavasal, Pudukottai
Sittannavasal is a small village in Pudukkottai district and is world famous for its fresco paintings in the rock-cut Jaina cave temple. Sittannavasal has an important place in the history of Tamilnadu. The megalithic monuments such as stone-circles, urn burials and cists spread in the plains of this village testify that this area was inhabited by pre-historic man.





Sittannavasal is known primarily for its mural paintings in the Jaina rock-cut cave temple called Arivar koil. These paintings are second only in importance after Ajanta paintings in the art history of India. There is a natural cavern, called Ezhadippattam, with polished rock beds of Jaina ascetics. These rock beds contain Tamil inscriptions.
The oldest is a Tamil Brahmi inscription, the oldest in the district, and was being considered till recently as belonging to the 3rd century BC. According to the recent study by Iravatham Mahadevan, it is dated to the 1st century BC. Sittannavasal is perhaps the only place where you can find inscriptions in Tamil from the 1st century BC to the 10th century AD. The Navachchunai, with its submerged cave temple, would interest those who are adventurous.




There are a number of explanations or interpretations about the derivation of the name. One of such explanations says that Sittannavasal is a corruption of Chir-ran-nal-vaa-yil (‘abode of great saints’). Another explanation says that this hill, once a part of a suburb of Annalvayil, could have come to be called Chirrannalvaayil (Chiru-annal-vaayil – ‘smaller-Annal-Vaayil’). Yet another version interprets that the name could be a derivation from Siddhaanaam vaasah, a word of northern origin, becoming Siddhannavaasah and then Sittannavasal. In the Tamil Brahmi inscription mentioned before, the name of this place is mentioned as ‘Chiru-posil’.
Sittannavasal monuments, particularly the Jaina cave temple, are well known. The cave temple is of great importance because of its paintings. But those who visit the cave temple with high hopes are likely to be somewhat disappointed. The main reason is that precious little of the paintings remain. This should sadden anyone.





Further, the cave temple itself is rather small, particularly when compared with those at Ajanta, with which the paintings of Sittannavasal are often compared. The glory of Sittannavasal is not in its extent, but the exquisite style that can be seen even in whatever that remains. Perhaps Sittannavasal reminds us of the past glory and of our present insensitivity to our heritage.
Geography
The Sittannavasal village is about 20 kilometers (12 mi) to the north of Pudukottai, just before Annavasal village and about 58 kilometers (36 mi) from Trichy. The entrance to the village has a welcome arch. Within its geographical setting there is a prominent hill of 70 metres (230 ft) height, which runs in the north-south direction, where many Jaina cave monuments are located.



Megalithic sites of the 1st century BC have also been excavated near the village, on the road to the monuments. It was a flourishing village during the Jaina period from the 7th to 9th century AD. Before entering the Sittannavasal and on the road to the monuments, remains of prehistoric burial sites are seen. The Jain natural caverns, called Ezhadippattam are approached from the foothills. On the western slope of the central part of the hill is the cave temple which is approached by climbing a few 100 steps.
Historical Background
The village was settled during the megalithic period from the 1st century BC according to excavations of several megalithic sites near the village. Jainism flourished here from 1st century BC to 10th century AD. The Arivarkovil or the Temple cave is initially dated to Pallava King Mahendravarman I (580-630AD) prior to his conversion from Jainism to Hinduism. The village later fell under the reign of the Pandyans in Tamil Nadu, and an inscription attributes renovation of the cave to a Pandyan king, probably Maran Sendan (654- 670AD) or Arikesari Maravarman (670-700AD). The Jain beds on the hill top indicate a Jaina era pilgrimage centre which lasted till the 9th century CE.



Sittannavasal is one of the oldest inhabited sites in the District, perhaps the oldest. Megalithic burial sites in this village testify that the areas around the hillock having been inhabited by iron-age men. Just before the beginning of the Christian era, this was a flourishing centre of Jaina influence, where Jainism flourished for over 1000 years, from 1st century BC to 10th century AD. During 7th – 9th centuries, the Arivar koil, the rock-cut cave temple, had been excavated. There is nothing much known after that.
The Monuments
The archaeological monuments found in the area surrounding Sittannavasal village are the architectural features of the Arivar Kovil (Sittannavasal Cave), on the western side of the hill towards the north and the painting and sculptures found within its precincts, the Jaina beds, also known as Ekadipattam or Ezhadippattam in a natural cavern on the eastern side of the hill, the Samavasarana, an a place of assembly of a Tirthankara in the form of mural paintings on the roof of the cave temple, megalithic burial urns, stone circles, cairns, dolmens, cists from the Iron Age called mudu-makkal-thaazhi, and a submerged tarn called the Navach-Chunai to the north of the natural cavern in the hill. The Archaeological Survey of India is responsible for the maintenance of the Arivar Kovil and the Jaina beds.




Sittannavasal is a world famous site in the district. In the village is a large rocky hillock which is about 200 feet in height and run north to south. There are four interesting monuments on and around this rocky hill.





The Arivar Koil
The Sittannavasal Cave, also known as Arivar Kovil, is a Jain monastery of the 7th century, small in size, excavated in a bluff on the western slope of the hill in its centre. It is noted for its paintings which have been painted in fresco-secco technique with many mineral colours. The painting themes depict a beautiful lotus pond and flowers, people collecting lotuses from the pond, two dancing figures, lilies, fish, geese, buffaloes and elephants. Mulk Raj Anand said of the paintings, "Pallava craftsmen used greens and browns and puqiles, with a genuine ability and a lyrical flow of line. Lotuses spring up from imaginary ponds amid variegated greenery, under a bluish sheen." In addition, inscriptions of the 9th and 10th century are also seen. The exquisite ceiling of the Ardhamandapam is decorated with murals from the 7th century. 


The cave temple has placid pillars and sculptures of Jain Thirthankaras. However, most of the frescoes which were covered fully in plaster have been severely defaced or not clearly visible due to inadequate security and maintenance resulting in vandalism in the past five or six decades. Originally, the entire cave temple, including the sculptures, was covered with plaster and painted. The paintings are on the theme of Jaina Samavasarana, the "most attractive heavenly pavilion", referring to the attainment of Nirvana and Khatika bhumi.
On the western side of the hill, in the northern side, is the celebrated Jaina rock cut cave temple called, Arivar Koil (temple of the Arhats).
It has relics of paintings of 9th century AD. These paintings are second only in importance after Ajanta paintings and have an important place in the Indian art history.
For brief details, Please refer the below link;
The Ezhadippattam
Ezhadippattam or Jaina beds are a natural cave, marked by a horizontal floor space which is laid out with well-polished rock beds that were used by Jaina ascetics. There are seventeen beds at the top marked on the floor. These carved beds have headrests cut in them in the form of a raised pillow. The oldest Tamil Brahmi inscriptions seen inscribed on the beds are dated to the 3rd century BC, although recent research by Iravatham Mahadevan dates it to the First Century BC and extending to the 10th Century AD. On one of the oldest and largest beds, the inscription in Tamil is of Tamil Brahmi script of the 1st century BC, considered as the oldest lithic record of South India. Also, names of ascetics who engaged in sallekhana (fasting unto death) are written on their respective beds.


On the eastern side is the natural cavern called Ezhadippattam with polished rock beds where Jaina ascetics practiced severest penance, for more than a thousand years since 1st century BC. It contains a 1st century BC Brahmi inscription and innumerable other Tamil inscription.
For brief details, Please refer the link below;
Megalithic Burial Sites
Excavations carried out in 1934-35 in the Sittannavasal village have revealed many Megalithic burial sites near the hill, which are in the form of both cist and urn burials. These are located on both sides of the road leading from the monuments to the main road, after about 100 metres (330 ft) from the Ezhadippattam; more are seen on the left side of the road leading to Pudukkottai.


Antiquaries collected from the sites also include specimens of garnet, red jasper and rock crystal at the foot of the hill have been picked up near the foot of the hill, pottery pieces with coating of molten and coloured glass inside, and also small pieces of coloured glass; all these are indicative of glass manufacturing in the area.
There are megalithic monuments like urn-burials, stone circles and cists in plenty, near to the hillock.
For Brief details, Please refer the link below;
Navachunai
Jambunatha’s Cave or Navach-Chunai, in the style of late Pandya temples of the 13th century AD, is a tarn located between Ezhadippattam and Arivar Kovil caves. It is on the eastern slope on the central part of the hills. This is a small rock-cut temple which is submerged in a small lake (tarn). Hill climbing is required to reach the cave temple. An old Jambu tree ((Syzygium jambolanum) is seen near the lake, which gives its name to the cave. It is a Shiva temple with a lingam in the centre, which is worshiped by baling out water from the lake.
To the north of the natural cavern, on the eastern slope of the rock is a small rock-cut temple submerged in a tarn, called Navachunai. It requires some amount of rock climbing and trekking to reach there.
For brief details, Please refer the link below;
Other Interesting Sites
For other interesting sites in Sittannavasal, Please refer the link below;
ASI Protected Monuments
Presently, the Jaina cave temple, the natural cavern called Ezhadippattam, and the megalithic burial sites are protected monuments and are under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).
There are ASI staffs available in the Jaina cave temple and Ezhadippattam.
Opening & Closing Time
Open from 9.00 am to 5.30 pm
Entrance Fees
 Fee:
Citizens of India and visitors of SAARC (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives and Afghanistan) and BIMSTEC Countries (Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Myanmar) - Rs. 5 per head.
Others: 
US $ 2 or Indian Rs. 100/- per head (Free entry to children up to 15 years)
Reaching the Monuments
On the road before one takes a turn to enter Sittannavasal and on the roads leading to the monuments, there are remains of megalithic burial sites.
Following this road, off the main road, one reaches the foothills of the hillock at which the road takes a left turn. It is from here one starts the climb to the Jaina caverns containing stone beds.
Further traveling on the road would take you to the western slope of the central hillock. From here one makes a short climb of some steps to reach the Jaina cave temple, and its world famous mural paintings.
Visitors are suggested to start with the Arivar Koil and then visit the Ezhadippattam.
Connectivity
Sittannavasal is located on Pudukkottai – Annavasal – Viralimalai main road about 16 km from Pudukkottai. The village lies to the right of the road from Pudukkottai to Annavasal. There are few buses plying on this route, better to take a private taxi.
The Sittannavasal village is 12 kilometers north-west of Pudukkottai, in the Pudukkottai – Annavasal route. One can reach the village and the monuments by taking a diversion from the Pudukkottai – Annavasal road, 2 km before Annavasal to the right. An arch put up by the Government welcomes the visitors to the village.
Nearest Railway Station is Pudukottai & Nearest Major Railway Station is Trichy.
Nearest Airport is Trichy Airport.